Westwards

Highlights from 5 weeks on New Zealand's North Island

Hiking on the remote Waikaremoana Ruapani Circuit in New Zealand

After travelling the North Island of New Zealand for five weeks earlier this year, we did a personal ranking of what we liked best. Before we went to New Zealand we had consulted guide books and social media about the must-sees and must-dos in New Zealand.

We visited some of them – not all: we skipped, for instance, Hobbington (by choice) and the Glow Worm Caves (bad planning on our part). It turned out that our personal favourites did not necessarily coincide with the standard tourist portfolio.  Anyway here are our tops – subjective and personal, but all of them spectacular!

NB: Double rankings are caused by the point system – No.1 gets five points, No. 2 four points and so on. We do this both and add up the points.

#1. Seal colony near Cape Palliser

Originally we went to Cape Palliser south of Martinborough to do a short hike around the nearby Putangirua Pinnacles, a very strange forest of spikey rocks that served as a location in the “Lord of the rings”. The hike was nice enough but didn't take the whole day, so we decided to go all the way to Cape Palliser Lighthouse. On our way back we spotted the seals lounging on the rocks just off the coastal road.

They were quite relaxed and at ease with occasional human visitors and we could stand a couple of meters away watching them. Once a seal even broke out of the bushes right behind us and crawled past.

#1. Five-day canoe tour on the Whanganui River

We may not have thought on the first of those days on the River Whanganui that this would become one of the highlights of our New Zealand trip – but in retrospect the trip into the wilderness was among our most cherished experiences. The Whanganui River is one of the longest rivers in New Zealand and flows through spectacular landscapes. Read here about the ups and downs of paddling on the Whanganui River.

#2. Giant Kauri trees

Tane Mahuta or "God of the Forest", the largest Kauri tree in New Zealand

The huge and ancient Kauri trees were one of the reasons to visit New Zealand in the first place, especially after having read about them in books like “Barkskins” by Annie Proulx and “The Overstory” by Richard Powers. We did finally see them during the last week of our New Zealand trip, but there was some great information in Wellington's Te Papa Museum, too. On the Northland peninsula, we spent two days looking for the nowadays rare and endangered Kauri trees: in the Kauri Museum in Matakohe we learned even more about their size (up to 50 m high and 17 m circumference!), age (the older ones around 2000 years) and the use of their wood (for everything). Kauri trees are easily damageable because humans and even most animals arrived so late in New Zealand that the trees have not adapted to them. There are however several protected forests where the enormous trees can be seen – but not touched.

#3. Hiking near the Waikaremoana Lake

None of the other hikes we did (Tongariro Circuit, Edmonton National Park and the Cape Brett Walk near Paihia) made it on the Top Five list – but we immensely enjoyed our day walk in the Waikaremoana National Park. Originally we had intended to do the Waikaremoana Great Walk, a three-day hike along the shores of Lake Waikaremoana, but the trail had been closed for months after storm damages. Instead we dide the Ruapani Circuit, a day trek from the visitor centre and camp ground. The trail was partly along the more popular Waikareiti Trail leading up to Lake Waikareiti and back. On this part of the trail we met 4 other walkers, but on the more overgrown part of the Ruapani Circuit, we were alone. This part of the trail was quite natural, unlike the mass-compatible boardwalks of the Tongariro Circuit.

#4. Hot sand bath in Hahei

In general, we did not find the much-hyped Coromandel Peninsula particularly enthralling (Cathedral Cove, for instance, seems absolutely overrated to us – we had bad weather, though). But a bath at Hotwater Beach near Hahei was fun: The beach is heated in some places by volcanic activity, and by digging pools in the right spot you can tap a (very) hot spring. In low tide, this is a very popular activity and dozens of shallow sand bath tubs cluster in a small area of the beach, where the water is neither to cold nor to hot.

#4. Auckland museums

Pacific mask in the Auckland Museum, New Zealand

We visited a number of museums in New Zealand. Particularly interesting were the two main museums in Auckland: In the Auckland Museum in the large park called the Domain, we found the displays about other pacific island cultures especially intriguing. The Maritime Museum at the harbour presented an interesting mix of Maori boats, whalers, and America's Cup Yachts, combined with stories from the emigrant ships.

Immigrant history in Auckland's Maritime Museum, New Zealand

NB: Our trip to New Zealand was not sponsored in any way, we organised the round trip on our own and paid everything ourselves.

Into wild waters: A canoe trip on the Whanganui River in New Zealand

Earlier this year we spent five weeks on the Northern Island of New Zealand. And one of the highlights of our trip was a five day canoe tour on the Whanganui River, which is also one of the Great Walks of New Zealand (and the only one you do not actually walk but paddle).

Day 1: Cherry Grove – Ohinepane. 25 km

„Let‘s see - Ok, we go down the main current and then we have to take a sharp right turn in order NOT to hit that stone, and then there‘s another stone behind.“ Ben, the guy who rented us the canoe, has advised us to get out of the canoe at the first major bend to assess the next rapid. Apparently it is one of the most difficult ones on the Whanganui River. What he didn’t tell us is that a canoe reacts quite differently from a kayak (something we have done before) … Instead of going to the right, and in spite of fervent paddling on our part, the canoe continues straight forward directly heading for the stone – and then the boat tilts and slowly turns over.

Capsizing is far less stressful than anticipated – February is New Zealand summer and the Whanganui River is surprisingly warm. We just have to get to the shore, unload the canoe to tilt the water out, repack, and get in again. At least, capsizing just 15 minutes into the five-day trip should take the fear off it. 

In fact, we fall into the water three times on that first day on the Whanganui River canoe tour. Once, a nearby kayaking guide has to come swimming to rescue our boat from a tree where it is stuck. And by the evening we feel depressed and doubtful about canoeing on the rapids of a truly wild river. 

Only three other people have started the five-day river tour with us that day, all of them younger solo travellers on single kayaks. Lim, with whom we are paddling within viewing distance because he rented the kayak from the same operator as we did, is a Korean student and has never been on a river, nor pitched a tent, but he is doing quite well (although he, too, falls off his kayak occasionally).

Day 2: Ohinepane – Whakahoro. 40 km

Stubbornly we decided the evening before to stick it out – either we will never go into a canoe after this trip or we will get better at it. On our second day, the rapids continue, but we manage somehow. Perhaps we have gained more experience and are working better strategies in assessing the current beforehand, squinting at the river surface: “There’s that snag over there, and behind that …  I don’t think that wave in the distance is a stone … Anyway we should go to the far left and steer around whatever it is ...” We treat the heavy, roundish canoe as a washtub that will just follow the current from whichever point it is when the river starts going faster, and concentrate on finding the right entrance point and on keeping it as straight as possible. This seems to work better than yesterday’s attempts at “steering”. And gradually the river gets slower: The Whanganui River is extremely low after a hot and dry summer, and people had warned us that we would have to paddle a lot.

We stay overnight at the Whakahoro campsite with a wonderful view over the river from above (but a very exhausting climb up to the site).

Day 3: Whakahoro – John Coull. 40 km.

On the third day, we enter the Whanganui National Park and paddle mostly on calm waters through canyons with impressively high steep walls. Drift wood piles up on the sides and sometimes in the middle of the river – keeping us somewhat busy spotting trouble. But on the whole it is a relaxed and quiet day: Ducks follow our canoe, cormorants sit watchfully, and wild goats scramble up the shores. Once or twice we glide past kingfishers that only make the effort of flying up when we are at arm’s length from them. There are no roads or settlements within the Whanganui National Park, the only access is by boat.

The extremely low level of the Whanganui River also means that the features along the river and most rapids are quite different from their description in the river chart – today we don’t even notice some of the normally difficult ones. By now, our group of five has become sort of a river family.

Day 4: John Coull – Tieke Kainga. 39 km

The John Coull hut was the starting point for more kayaks and canoes. On the following section in the National Park, the Whanganui River offers spectacular scenery and not so difficult paddling in most places. The five of us who started out together on the difficult rapids of the upper river stick together more, watching out for each other and sharing breaks.

Half into the day, there’s a popular side-trip by foot leading to the Bridge to Nowhere. It is a proper road bridge built in the 20^th century to provide access for new settlements – but the terrain proved too difficult to finish the road. Some of the pioneers held out for a few decades, but many died, and eventually, the area was abandoned – all that is left is the concrete bridge, far too large for the hiking path crossing it. A few name plates are set up in memory of the settlers who once tried to cultivate the forest, a dense jungle today.

Today's campsite at Tieke Kainga is situated on traditional Maori land. Originally most of the area was sparsely populated by Maori tribes, but with the creation of the Whanganui National Park everyone who lived there had been forced to leave the park. When the park administration (DOC / Department of Conservation) decided to establish campsites in the 1990s, the Maori tribe who still formally owned the land protested. Eventually the campsite was placed under joint administration of DOC and the tribe, and they could build a Marae (a meeting house) next to the campsite.

Day 5: Tieke Kainga – Pipiriki. 24 km.

Our last day on the river is quite short with some steep and fast rapids, but also more relaxed parts among widening banks. Often, we are still paddling in a canyon with high walls and piled-up driftwood, and the most difficult part is avoiding the high waves of the jet boats which pass us frequently, ferrying groups of hikers or mountain bikers between Pipiriki and the Bridge to Nowhere landing. All five of us are nervous because today we will encounter a very sharp and fast left-bend rapid with a big stone sticking out right in the middle of it. “A red canoe is wrapped around it – so you should spot it easily!” everybody has assured us. We cheat a little by dragging the canoes and kayaks over the shallow banks on the left side....

After a few hours of paddling, we arrive in Pipiriki, the final point of the Whanganui River tour: with a sense of achievement, but more importantly, very relaxed. The tour on the river has taken us very far from our normal life and work, and not only because there’s no Internet, electricity and mobile connection. And we are glad that we pulled through with the trip after the first bad day.

What you need to know before heading out on the Whanganui River

Most people only do the last three days of this trip, which are arguably the highlight of the river. This also means there are more people. We would recommend doing the five day trip. Some companies suggest stretching the three days into four days, or five days into six, to give you more time for exploring. However, when we did the trip we did not feel rushed or overly exhausted although the river was unusually slow and we had to paddle a lot.

You have to book most campsites and huts before you go. We rented our canoe at Whanganui River Canoes/Raetihi for 200 NZ Dollar per person which included storage barrels for the gear, life vests and a map of the river as well as transport to and from the river. Apart from the canoe rental, we organised the trip (huts and food) by ourselves.

All expenses have been fully paid by ourselves and we did not receive any sponsoring.

Great Walks in New Zealand: The Tongariro Northern Circuit

Mt Ngaurupoe or Mt Doom in the Tongariro National Park

When we started our three-day hike in the Tongariro National Park, we were not sure what to expect, but we were prepared to meet many people, as it is one of the most well-known tracks on the Northern Island. And we were prepared to meet even more people on the one day we shared partly with the popular “Tongariro Crossing” day trip.

„A thousand people per day do the Tongariro crossing.“ „Too many for my taste, but I‘m used to New Zealand tramps where you meet nobody the whole day.“ „Oh, it wasn‘t so bad, we had expected more.“ - were some of the statements we had heard before.

View of Mt. Ruapehu

Day 1: Whakapapa Village – Oturere Hut.

27 km, 1061 m up, 810 m down

The volcanic cone of Mt Ngauruhoe is looming over the heath when we approach the Tongariro visitor centre in Whakapapa Village in the morning light. We have decided to do the Tongariro Northern Circuit anti-clockwise, and thus against the current, as it were. Our first day to Waihohonu Hut being not so hard, we start not too early. The path first slopes gradually up to the saddle between Mt Ngauruhoe and the mighty snow-capped Mt Ruapehu. A few day-trippers head out in our direction, towards the clear Tama Lakes or the Taranaki waterfall.

 

Tama Lakes

Later in the day, we meet occasional hikers with some more luggage coming from the huts in the park. Before 3 pm, we are already at the historic Waihohonu Hut, where travellers since 1904 alighted from their stage coaches while doing the “Grand Tour” of New Zealand.

The hut warden at the neighbouring new Waihohonu Hut advises us that we might change our camping reservation (which we had made months ago because even the campsites in the National Park are so restricted) to the next hut if we wanted to continue. It is such a nice day that it feels too early to stop here – so we continue to Oturere Hut. The path turns out far more demanding than the first hours: up through overgrown forest, and then down through overgrown forest. And again up, and then up and down for a while in an ever more lonely and volcanic landscape. We arrive after everybody else, at around 7 pm, at the Oturere Hut, but are glad that we added these three hours to our schedule for today, and that we won’t have to do it tomorrow.

Day 2: Oturere Hut – Mangatepopo Hut

14 km, 570 m up, 740 m down

The next day is the steepest and highest part of the trail, hiking to the Emerald Lakes and over the Red Crater. This part of the trail is called the “Tongariro Crossing”, and is advertised all over New Zealand’s North Island as a must-do day hike. It is very likely the most popular day-hike in the whole country. Tourists are shuttled in the morning to the starting point at Mangatepopo, and picked up 6 to 10 hours later at the other end, at a much lower altitude. Nobody ever does the day hike in the opposite direction, it seems, with 400 m or so more to climb. From our last hut on the Tongariro Northern Circuit, however, it is actually not that many altitude meters – once we have reached the brilliantly coloured Emerald Lakes, we only have less than 200 m of altitude to the top of the Red Crater.

Day hikers on the Tongariro Crossing

This is where we encounter the day hikers, even though it is already midday and most must already have passed. Resting at the Lakes and trudging up the steep volcanic sand to the crater, we meet several hundred hikers going in the opposite direction – some of them in sneakers and struggling with the difficult terrain. “How much longer is it to the official end of the “Crossing”? About 20 minutes will do?”, an exhausted-looking youngster asks us. From the top of the Red Crater, we can see the trail of day hikers extending northwards past another lake and into the next valley. Maybe 3 or 4 hours more for the exhausted hiker...

Beyond the summit, we are alone again in the grey and barren landscape of recently erupted volcanoes. Mt Ngauruhoe is again right next to us, clearly visible on another spectacularly pleasant day. It has played a role in the Lord of the Rings movies, but is impressive enough on its own. The walk down to Mangatepopo is long, but easy, as the path is prepared for the masses of day-hikers: wooden boards and staircases most of the way, some toilet blocks lower down in the valley. Again, we are among the last to arrive at the hut.

Day 3: Mangatepopo-Whakapapa Village

10 km, 290 m up, 350 m down

Today we can really have a lazy start, for whereas everybody else is heading for the volcanic slopes of the Red Crater (with many other hikers), we are only crossing some foothills to return to Whakapapa Village. In the first 5 minutes of our hike we meet about 100 people who are just coming from the drop-off point and eager to start their Tongariro Crossing day hike. But soon we turn into a different trail and are almost alone for the rest of the morning. 5 pairs of hikers are walking in the opposite direction, and Mt Ruapehu is standing in front of us. Mt Ngauruhoe is in clouds today – we were lucky to have such good views on the volcano for the past two days.

When we dip into a forest and hear Chinese chatter, we know we are nearing Whakapapa Village, the end of our three-day Tongariro trail. People in shorts are walking towards the Taranaki Waterfall. Then a group of perhaps 30 young people in flip-flops, carrying towels, rugby balls and packets of crisps are pushing past us. Ten minutes later we arrive in the village and see the Kiwi Experience backpacker bus that apparently carried the group to their picnic trip in the mountains.

What you need to know before heading out on the Tongariro Northern Circuit

The Tongariro Northern Circuit is one of New Zealand’s Great Walks – so in season hut and camping reservations are essential. We hiked at the beginning of February and huts as well as camping facilities were booked solid. Camping facilities at the Oturere Hut were somewhat wider than the few places that could officially be booked, so in reality it was not quite so restricted – but at Mangatepopo Hut it would be difficult to find space for an extra tent. You have to bring your own food, pots, and plates, but even campers can use the gas stoves in the kitchen.

And yes, there is a certain risks of earthquakes and volcano outbreaks. Write your name and where you are heading next into the “intentions book” in the huts – for all kinds of emergencies and for curious fellow hikers.

This was our year in travels 2018

Visit to a desert village in Uzbekistan: Eski Dungala

As always, we had a busy year – with not as much travelling as we might have wished, but still good.

January/ February

We started the year with a short sightseeing trip to Brussels with Isa's mother. It was the first time that we went on a trip together and we had a lot of fun visiting art museums, eating Belgian fries (double-fried and thus less oily) and chocolates, drinking beer and admiring the numerous murals. In fact we all liked it so much that we have already scheduled another trip to Antwerp for 2019.

Kinkie & Cozy mural in Brussels

February/March

At the end of January we left for a four week backpacking trip to Western Africa flying in and out at Lome/ Togo. We travelled loop through Togo, Benin, Southern Burkina Faso and back to Togo. Prepared for a tough journey, we were surprised how easily we got around and how relaxed we felt.

Togo, and especially Lome, was surprising: very laid-back with white beaches and a good pub culture, too. Visiting the Wolds House in Agbodrafo greatly added to our knowledge and understanding of the slave trade from West Africa.

Tranquil beach in the capital – Lome in Togo is a backpacker's insider tip

Benin was our favourite travel destination of the three countries. There were remarkable places for sightseeing, the transportation system was good, and we also liked the food. We even did a safari in the Pendjari National Park in Northern Benin.

On a boat ride on lake Ganvie in Benin

Burkina Faso on the other hand was a bit tiresome – and Natascha suffered from a cold, which in combination with the dry harmattan wind led to frequent nose bleeding. Most impressive were Sindou Peaks and our visit to a Fetish master.

The Sindou Peaks in Burkina Faso are UNESCO World Heritage

On the way back from the Westafrica travel we had a long stopover in Lisbon and visited Sintra.

Top sightseeing highlight Sintra in Portugal, without the tourist crowds

March/ April

From the end of March we both worked as travel tour guides in Japan during the cherry blossom season. And we managed to start early for a relaxed sightseeing week without guests in Kyoto.

Sightseeing Highlight: The beautiful gardens of Kyoto

May/ June

Almost no travel at all – due to family matters we spent a lot of time in Munich – only managed a weekend sightseeing trip to Bologna from Munich by bus.

Romantic streets in Bologna on a sightseeing weekend

July

In July we travelled to Uzbekistan to update our Dumont Guidebook. As the tourist visa allows only for a maximum length of four weeks we were quite in a hurry to check all the tourist places. But we also went to some sightseeing spots new to us, like the shores of the Aral Sea.

Summer expedition to the shores of the Aral Sea

August

Originally we thought about hiking in the Alps in summer – but decided to stay at home in Berlin, just meeting friends and taking it slow.

Giant kites in the traveller capital of Berlin

September-November

September to November were dedicated to work: Isa writing up the Uzbekistan travel guidebook and several other assignments at home; Natascha tour-guiding in Central Asia (Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Kirgizstan and Kazakhstan) and in Japan. We managed to squeeze in five days in Thessaloniki/ Greece, though.

Church of Agios Dimitros in Thessaloniki

December

In late November we left for 3 1/2 weeks of research for the new edition of our Dumont Egypt guide book, returning to Berlin just before Christmas. And this was the last trip for 2018. 

Egypt's top sightseeing: the Pyramids of Giza

We wish you all a very happy 2019 full of travels!

Dressing up in the Royal Palaces in Seoul

Heavy rain has set in when we reach the Gyeongbokgung Royal Palace in Seoul. A family dressed in the formal garb of Korean nobility is seeking shelter under the eaves of the palace. The traditional dress of the Yangban, a Korean noble or court official, consists of the characteristic hat traditionally made from horsehair with a bamboo frame (the rental ones are made from plastic...). The women wear hanbok, the Korean skirt that begins directly under the breast and bulges down with a lot of fabric. Some of them are holding umbrellas, and nearly all are holding smartphones to take family photos in the palace surroundings.

Gyeongbokgung Palace is one of five Royal Palaces in Seoul, originally built in the 14^th century but repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt. The latest round of rebuilding is still going on, as about 80% of the palace buildings were systematically destroyed by the Japanese occupation forces in the early 20^th century. The Japanese even built their own government building in the place of the former palace. Now the Gyeongbokgung Palace is one of the top tourist attractions in Seoul, and not only Koreans but also busloads of South-Asian tourists rent royal costumes for their walk around the premises.

When we walk the palace grounds in the pouring rain, we are surprised to see most buildings labelled as "1860s", although they are built with concrete and we are quite sure that some of them didn't exist when we first visited more than 25 years ago.

The constant rebuilding and reinvention of Korean history is probably one reason why only another one of the five Royal Palaces in Seoul has made it onto the UNESCO World Heritage list: Changdeokgung was originally built in the 15^th century as a secondary palace. But when a Japanese invasion at the end of the 16^th century left the town and its palaces devastated, this one was the first the Korean kings rebuilt. They then proceeded to use Changdeokgung as the main Royal Palace for the next 200 years, and some members of the Royal Family even continued to live there until 1989.

The large throne hall with its ceremonial court is quite impressive – stone markers show on the courtyard where officials with the court ranks one or two should stand during ceremonies. Lower ranks were apparently not so much in attendance – there's fewer space allotted to them.

Behind the Changdeokgung throne hall, there are smaller buildings where the daily work of the government was done, and a residential building for the Korean king which was rebuilt after a fire in 1917, with electricity and some Western-style furniture. Nevertheless, many of the buildings in this palace appear to be quite old and look like from a different time, even those intended for the king's concubines that were in use until the 1980s. They all feature beautiful woodwork, especially in the latticed windows and doors, but also the banisters and eaves.

The whole Changdeokgung palace complex was built not on a large flat area like most palaces, but at the foot of a hill with some slopes. Thus, the halls are not arranged in one clear pattern but in accordance with the surrounding landscape and the topography, culminating in a pleasant stroll garden, the so-called "secret garden".

Even in this palace, however, we notice a whole area of densely arranged administrative buildings that were newly built in 2005 but made to resemble old buildings, and a number of the main buildings have modern and concrete elements that are not acknowledged in the information panels, so we always wonder what of this is old, what part is restored according to confirmed original plans, and which of the buildings are just a modern fantasy of what the Korean government currently wants their own country's history to look like.

Is it worth visiting Gyeongbokgung Palace and Changdeokgung Palace in Seoul?

Both palaces are impressive and popular with tourists. History buffs can skip the newly rebuilt Gyeongbokgung Palace, but it is good for photos. And although we have some concerns with the historical accuracy of the UNESCO rated Changdeokgung Palace, the buildings are beautiful and the design is stunning. On the whole, we liked the solemnity of the ancestor shrine, Jongmyo more, but the Korean Royal Palaces are more visually attractive.

How to travel to Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung Palace

Both Royal Palaces are in the centre of Seoul and close to metro stations. It is easily possible to walk between them (and also to Jongmyo Shrine).

NB: Our 10-day travel to Korea was not sponsored or supported in any way; all expenses were paid for by ourselves.

A visit to bulbous hills in the Gyeongju Historic Areas

The group of grassy, strangely globular hills in Gyeongju looks like an oversized playground but without slides and climbing frames. It is a rather unique sight, which we immediately remember from when we first visited the Royal Tumulus Park on a previous journey in 1992. Meanwhile, the Gyeongju Historic Areas have been inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list and we have come back to have another look.

On our journey on the fast KTX Train from Busan, we had a taste of the Korean high-tech shift in the past 25 years: We had reserved seats, but the train conductor never looked at our tickets. He just walked past, looking at his tablet and comparing which seats should be taken and which were supposed to be free. No need to disturb the passengers if everything appeared in order. Later we found out that an even more developed system worked when travelling on highway buses.

From the Gyeongju Train Station, we were quickly shuttled to the central sightseeing area on a local bus, and proceeded to explore the Royal tombs and some other historically important and UNESCO-listed areas. The route recommended by the tourist office was about 6 km. Many travellers rented bicycles, but as we had nearly the whole day we decided to walk – which worked out fine for us.

Until the 1970s, the tumulus tombs were still overgrown with grass and untouched – although it was obvious that the hills contained important tombs, the archaeologists were reluctant to open the tombs of previous kings. When they did eventually, they found a wall painting of a flying horse and golden crowns from the Silla period (around 6^th c AD). The Cheonmachong Tomb is now open for visitors, with a small exhibition of replicas from this find.

The sightseeing route then leads us to an ancient astronomical tower – a small stone structure from which you wouldn't see any star in South Korea's bright night sky today – to some more tumulus tombs, and to an old Confucian Temple near the Woljeonggyo bridge. This section is rather a relaxed countryside walk without amazing highlights. We cross the huge excavation site of the Wolseong Fortress – there's not a trace of fortress buildings to be seen, but a bunch of Korean archaeologists we meet assure us that they are going to discover more foundations and figure out where the actual castle was. They seem rather confident that there will be a reconstructed fortress here in a few more years.

For some more visual stimulation we make a detour to Anapji, a garden around Wolji Pond. Between Lotus flowers and fields, a number of open pavilions (now called the Eastern Palace, or Donggung) are strewn around a meandering pond. This makes for a nice stroll garden and some good views, although we are, as often during our Korea trip, not sure how much of this is really old and original.

One of the highlights of our sightseeing day in Gyeongju is the National Museum at the edge of town: There's much more to it than the golden crowns from the Royal tombs, but also a lot more golden grave goods, intricately decorated 5^th century pottery, and fantastic Buddhist statues. We also like the bird-shaped vessels from 3^rd century burials – they were used in the funeral rites, and presumably the deceased then hoped to fly to heaven with them.

Are the Gyeongju Historic sites worth visiting?

Definitely yes! The strangely shaped tombs are really unique and it is fascinating to imagine the old Silla culture thriving during the 1st - 10th century. It might be a good idea to start with the National Museum though, in order to acquire sufficient historical background for your walk.

***NB: Our 10-day visit to Korea was not sponsored or supported in any way; all expenses were paid for by ourselves. ***

Warm autumn days in Thessaloniki

Young men in formal robes stand in front of gleaming golden walls and porticoes. Above them, wings of the Archangels can be seen. The mosaics of Thessaloniki's ancient Rotunda are included in the UNESCO World Heritage “Paleochristian and Byzantine Monuments of Thessalonika,” and rightly so.

In terms of sightseeing, we always try to eat our cake as soon as possible – that is: not to save the highlights for the end but to go immediately and see the things on top of our wish list. Decades of travelling have taught us that unexpected changes of plan can occur …. So on our first day in Thessaloniki, as soon as we have checked in, we walk down into the town and enter the Rotunda.

30 m high and round, it is a sturdy building from antiquity – the Roman Emperor Galerius had it built in the 4^th century, perhaps as a mausoleum for himself. Galerius was a strict persecutor of Christians for most of his life – but soon after, the Empire became Christian and quickly, Galerius' Rotunda was turned into a splendid Christian church. The golden mosaics in the cupola and on some arches are still partly preserved and still magnificent. In 1591, the building became a mosque and was fitted with a free-standing minaret. After all that back-and-forth, today it is a non-religious historical site.

Over the next few days, we seek out many more churches, archaeological excavations from the Roman period such as the excavated Roman Forum, and walk along the remnants of the sturdy city walls. Yet five days are not enough to see all the Palaeochristian and Byzantine sites on the UNESCO list and everything else we thought we would like to see in Thessaloniki. Especially as we spent the better part of two days on excursions travelling into the nearby countryside (see our previous post, "Philipp's II tomb in Vergina/Greece").

The second big item on our sightseeing wish list of "cakes" was the Byzantine Museum. Thessaloniki was from the start one of the most important cities in the Eastern Roman / Byzantine Empire, and there are a lot of early Christian objects on display: The marble columns and huge stone sarcophaguses look quite Roman to us. In the early years, the burial rules were apparently quite lax – short of cremation, the early Christians could do everything as in heathen times, including extravagant grave goods, painted tombs and funeral banquets.

Later on, the style shifted to the typical Byzantine mosaics and frescoes, and painted wooden icons of saints and holy martyrs we had never heard of. This even increased after the Ottomans had conquered Constantinople in1453 and ended the Byzantine Empire. Church authorities then promised every martyr for the Christian belief the same status as the traditional saints. In those days, martyrdom was quite easily accomplished, so it became rather popular for Christian losers to run out into the street and insult Islam in public. Muslim authorities at times were rather annoyed that they had to behead all those people in order to prove their authority.

In the Archaeological Museum (another sightseeing highlight), we especially liked the stylish bowls from the Island of Chios, and the statues of the Egyptian gods the Romans started to worship in the later years of the Empire. At least in Makedonia, there was also a custom of putting spells written on a strip of metal into the tombs, which reminds us of the Book of the Dead in Egypt. But we also noticed with delight some details like the profession of "flatterer" at formal banquets, the manufacturer's name on stones for slingshots, or the sales contract for a little slave girl written on a huge stone slab certainly heavier than the girl.

Oh, and then of course, the cakes themselves. Both guidebooks we used for our travel to Thessaloniki had a special section on the best confectioners in town, with suggestions on how to incorporate several of them into a day walk. So we sampled our way through Trigonas (cream-filled triangles) at Stratos, Tsoureki (yeast loaves with sweet fillings and a chocolate icing) at Terkenlis bakery, and variously filled Koulouri (sesame rings – similar to Turkish Simit).

Strong Greek coffee goes quite well with all of this.

And when the weather returned to summer on our last evening of the journey, we even did a short boat cruise along the coastline of Thessaloniki.

Notice: Our trip to Thessaloniki was organised and paid for entirely by ourselves, we do not have any association with the sites and shops mentioned or depicted above, and we did not receive any sponsoring.

We used two travel guidebooks and one history book:

DuMont Reise-Taschenbuch Chalkidikí & Thessaloníki. 2017.
Lonely Planet Greece. 2018 (we had the previous edition).
Mark Mazower: Salonica, City of Ghosts: Christians, Muslims and Jews. 2005

Philipp's II tomb in Vergina/Greece: Tracking down the father of Alexander the Great

Eagerly we stare at the winding road and the fields around us with occasional houses, rushing to the exit at the sight of a sidewalk and a restaurant sign. Road signs have been pointing to the UNESCO-designated Vergina Archaeological Site for at least two kilometres now, and we are keen to get off the bus in order to visit the Makedonian royal tombs. Alexander the Great must have been here before us we think. But, "Not yet, not yet", the bus driver and several locals in the bus hold us back. Finally, at a deserted road corner seemingly in the middle of nowhere, we are allowed to get off the bus. "This way up to the royal tomb!"

Indeed, it is only 50 metres or so to the entrance of an inconspicuous garden with a ticket office. Inside the gate, there is only a large green hill with a ramp leading down into it as in an underground car park. We haven't seen any tourists yet – the parking and souvenir stalls are on the opposite site of this road, it turns out later.

The hill in the countryside of Vergina had always looked man-made – in the 5^th century BC the kings of Makedonia resided in this village, and although they were not particularly powerful, the archaeologists expected to find some tombs of nobles or even kings in the tumulus. In 1977, they came across a stone chamber filled with expensive weapons and grave goods – among them golden greaves of different length. They turned out to belong to a king who had one shorter leg: Philipp II of Makedonia.

Philipp II was the father of Alexander the Great. He was also the first important king of Makedonia, a military commander who turned a rural hinterland into a leading force in Greece. The civilised ancient Greeks with their democracies and city-states tended to look down on the Makedonians as barbarian country bumpkins who still had kings. It was Philipp who turned the Makedonian warriors into a strong army, defeated the other Greek states and became leader of the Greek forces whom he organised in a campaign against the mighty Persian Empire. Eventually, the king was killed before the start of the war, and his successor Alexander fought that great war against the Persians (very successfully so, which made Alexander famous and a god, and earned him the epithet "the Great").

Philipp's tomb, thus, was a major discovery for the archaeologists, and also a perfect opportunity for Greek nationalists to reinforce their claim on the heroic Makedonian kings. It is also a great sightseeing spot and tourist attraction.

Inside the green hill, there is no earth and rubble these days. Only the stone chambers of several tombs are untouched, the rest of the tumulus has been replaced by a tumulus-shaped museum displaying many of the most spectacular finds in glass cases.

The exhibition starts with some old tombstones of local people found in the rubble used to fill in the tumulus: These tombstones, a large panel explains with a certain excitement, are much older than Philipp's tomb, and they display Greek names (at least this is what the panel claims). So, this is proof that the Makedonians were Greek! Okay – we wouldn't have thought about it without the exclamation marks, but apparently their Greek-ness isn't undisputed if such proof is needed.

Whether Greek or not – the Makedonian graves contained some beautiful artefacts – figurines and crowns, sets of silver dishes for the funerary feast. We wonder what the "chryselephantine couch" may have been, until we realise that was a heavily decorated ivory daybed used to heap all the grave goods onto. So “chryselephantine” is ivory, the curators just didn't bother to translate the Greek word.

Inside the Royal Tumulus, we have to look twice to find the actual tomb of Philipp II, Alexander the Great's father. The stairs are hidden behind a small modern door, and they only lead down to the large, decorated gates of the ancient tomb chamber. The gates are closed, but Alexander the Great must have stood exactly here when his father was entombed. The whole site was registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996, since when travellers and sightseers have arrived in droves.

A few days later, we endeavour a similarly complicated excursion by public bus to Pella, the ancient Makedonian town where Alexander was born in 356 BC. Most of the remains are from a slightly later period, but the mosaics are worth seeing and the museum is quite good.

How to get to the Vergina tourist site by public transport

Our sightseeing day trip to Vergina took us several hours each way by public transport, including transport within Thessaloniki. Rush hour is between 9 am and 10 am – during that period walking is probably faster.

From Thessaloniki Makedonia Bus Station (at the far Western end of town, city bus 12 and 33), busses to Veria leave not exactly regularly, but more or less twice per hour from bus stand 20. The express bus takes one hour. Busses from Veria to Vergina take only 20 minutes or so, but they are scarcer, so it helps to plan backwards. Since they backtrack a part of the route, it is possible to get off the first bus some stations before Veria Central Bus Station in order to catch the Vergina bus if the connection is tight. The bus driver will be able to advise. We found bus timetables at https://ktelmacedonia.gr/gr/routes/tid=12  and https://www.ktel-imathias.gr/ (only in Greek).

We used the layover in Veria to visit the Byzantine Museum there.

Is Vergina worth the journey?

We are glad that we went: the exhibits at the museum are quite stunning, but it is also the sheer historical weight of the place – going back to the origin of Alexander's empire … Okay, access on public transport is somewhat complicated, but travelling with the locals is also a good experience that you would miss out on, going with organised tourist outfitters or rental cars.

***All expenses for our sightseeing trip to Thessaloniki and Vergina were paid and organised by ourselves and we did not receive any funding.***

‪A windmill in Berlin – and some more visits to mills elsewhere

The guide at the Britz Windmill tightens a rope hanging from a beam and then shows how the mechanics work to make the mill grind a little finer. "A professional miller would be able to hear and feel the wind quality, and know immediately how tight to fix the millstones," he sighs. "But here, all of us are just hobby millers. We have to check the milled flour every so often and then adjust the stones."

The historic smock mill in the South of Berlin was built by a miller called Stechhan in 1865. It was a family-run grain mill until the 1930s but was partly destroyed in World War II. For decades, nobody cared about the old mill in the suburbs of then West Berlin, until it was restored for a horticultural show in 1985.

Since then, interest in the mill has grown, and these days there is a voluntary association for the maintenance of the mill, which also offers guided tours for tourists and weddings in the mill.

"The Britz Mill is by far not the oldest or largest mill in the country," our tourist guide admits, "nor does it have a very special history or technology. But we are proud to be the only mill in Germany offering training courses for millers." Even a professional milling process technician took the course recently, just to get an idea how food technology worked in former times. The hobby millers actually use the mill to produce flour, and yes, they do bake bread from it for the visitors.

Indeed, the technology of the smock mill itself is not very old – invented in the Netherlands in the 16th century, only the upper part of the mill had to move with the wind. Before that, with the earlier post mills, the miller (and his family) had to turn around the whole mill building whenever the wind changed direction. That wasn't a very convenient system and so post mills are relatively rare – in the course of our travels we have come across several old post mills a few years ago on a cycling tour along the Elbe River.

Historical windmill in Castro Marim, Algarve Coast, Portugal

Interestingly, most of the windmills we have seen (mostly travelling in the Northern part of Germany, or on windy islands and coasts) seem to have been used to mill grains.

A water wheel (noria) in Hama, Syria

In more mountainous areas (but also some others), water mills were more popular – and these were often used for all kinds of technologies such as forging and sawing, grinding and polishing, or just fetching water. Water energy was more consistently available, so professions who needed constant energy preferred to travel to and settle in areas where they could build watermills.

The mill in Schwerin was used to polish marble fixtures for the local palace

Have you visited a working windmill, perhaps accessible for sightseeing? And which do you like more, windmills, or watermills?

***Note: We did not receive payment or sponsoring for this article from any of the above mentioned places.***

Ancestor Worship at Jongmyo Shrine in Seoul

10 am on a blistering hot summer day in Seoul. Our Korean tourist guide arrives with a battery-powered handheld fan tucked into her belt. She is very professional about her sightseeing tour to Jongmyo Shrine and admonishes the travellers in her group:

"Jongmyo is the memorial shrine for the Royal Ancestors of the Yi Dynasty of Korea. It is still a place of worship: no loud noise or undue behaviour! Please stay on the marked paths!"

More than 100 years after the fall of the dynasty, the descendants of those Korean kings still regularly hold Confucian memorial services for their ancestors. This longstanding tradition of complicated rites has been named a UNESCO intangible heritage in 2008 and also made Jongmyo Shrine a UNESCO world heritage site. It is also the reason why Jongmyo is probably the most solemn and tranquil place in the 20-million megalopolis of Seoul. Visitors are only allowed in on guided tours.

Our sightseeing tour starts at Hyangdaecheong, a small building complex exclusively used for the preparation of the rituals: The ancestors' souls would get offerings consisting of a whole banquet of dishes. These days, a recreated model of such a memorial buffet is displayed in the kitchen and pantry block for the benefit of curious tourists.

There was also a separate courtyard (Jaegung) for the king and crown prince to change into special ritual robes for the event. For ritual (and perhaps also literal) cleansing they would also take a bath in this place, only a few steps from the main shrine.  The layout of all these buildings was dictated by complicated geomantic rules (feng shui): East of the palace, but before the mountains, and so on. "They even had to add a small man-made hill in the Southern part of the precincts to get it right", our guide claims.

Finally, we reach Jeongjeon itself, the large shrine for the royal ancestors – that is, for their souls: The ashes are buried in a different location. The centre of Jongmyo Shrine is a very long building with wings extending to the sides, consisting of 19 chambers all opening to the front yard. Each chamber is for a different royal ancestor –the first shrine established in 1395 for the first king's immediate forebears was later extended to both sides as the dynasty continued. The Yi Dynasty turned out rather long-lived – it ruled Korea until 1910 (then as "emperors") and when space got scarce at the Jeongjeon main building, the kings even built a smaller shrine (Yeongnyeongjeon) somewhat to the side.

Everyone still wanted to be honoured in the main shrine, however, so the new appendix became a kind of second-rate shrine: Kings who had ruled only briefly, and those very first ancestors who had not yet been kings were moved to the less important Yeongnyeongjeon. The last to be enshrined with the second league was Yi Un, Crown Prince without a kingdom, who only died in 1970. Confucianism, we learn, is very competitive even in death. The kings were probably used to constant rankings, as our resolute guide explains: They were supposed to continue studying the old scriptures for all their life. During their reign as well as posthumously they were awarded scholarly titles for their achievements (complete with certificates and seals).

The main shrine's courtyard is rather similar to other Confucian palaces and buildings we have seen, from the Imperial Palace in Beijing to the restored Shuri-jo Royal Palace in Naha/Okinawa. The stone platform in front of the ancestral chambers used to have fittings to add sun shades, and markers for the different ranks of officials who had to line up for the rites. Shortly after a king's death, such rituals had to be conducted quite often, but there are some ceremonies that are to be held even after many years.

Similar to Jongmyo Shrine: Shuri-jo Palace in Okinawa (Japan)

Obviously, guided tours would not be held when rituals are under way, so all the royal cubicles in the ancestral shrine were closed to ensure the royal ancestors' privacy and solitude.

But as soon as we leave the Jongmyo Shrine compound, we are propelled back into the noise and tourist activity of central Seoul – Jongmyo Shrine is within walking distance from Seoul tourist attractions such as Insadong pedestrian street and Gyeongbokgung Palace with their international travellers.

***All expenses for our trip to Seoul were paid and organised by ourselves and we did not receive any funding.***