Westwards

The old woodblock print matrixes at Haein-sa Temple in South Korea (UNESCO World Heritage)

The morning bus from Daegu is not particularly crowded, but on leaving the highway to tackle smaller roads into the mountains and towards UNESCO-designated Haein-sa Temple, it fills up. A number of old Korean peasants get on: They are wearing polyester dresses with floral patterns, and their shopping bags smell of fish and garlic. A huge radish tumbles out of one of the bags and rolls around the bus. The peasants, the bags, the fish and the vegetable – they all get off at another village, and after a short while we pass the Tripitaka Theme Park (hmmm – an amusement park built around Buddhist sutras?) and finally stop at a large but modern temple gate. A man gets on the bus to sell tickets to the passengers, or at least the tourists travelling on the bus, although it doesn't become altogether clear what they are for: For Haein-sa Temple? For the Gayasan National Park? Whatever, as everyone is buying one and at 3000 Won (about 2.30 €) they are not overly expensive, we pay up.

A few minutes later (and still further up in the mountains), the bus lets us off at the entrance to the temple precincts, from where a footpath leads to a modern museum building. And another 20 minutes' walk then brings us to the Haein-sa Temple itself.

The stump of a tree near the entrance gate is said to have been planted in 802, at the establishment of Haein-sa Temple. Most buildings and facilities in the front part of the temple are much newer reconstructions, however – we pass a number of accommodation facilities for pilgrims and lay visitors on a "temple-stay" programme also open to tourists, a larger gate housing the souvenir shop and a shop for devotional objects where visitors can also pay for prayers and other religious services.

Stairs then lead up to the main courtyard with the prayer hall and an old stone pagoda dating from the Unified Silla Period (668–935), when the temple was built. A few elderly women are walking anti-clockwise around the stone monument. The main hall behind is temporarily closed, with preparations under way for some religious celebration. No problem for us: it is a relatively new building – last refurbished in the 1970s – and the main reason for coming all this way is the plain wooden building further up the hill – the depository hall of the temple.

The depository hall, Janggyeong Panjeon, is indeed just an old storage room. Built in the 15^th century, it houses around 80,000 woodblocks which are even older: print matrixes for 80,000 pages of Buddhist texts, all very accurately executed in Chinese characters (back then, Chinese ideographs were the only writing used in Korea) without any known error. This enormous body of text, commonly called the Tripitaka Koreana, includes many more related texts, stories and commentaries than the standard Buddhist canon of Sutras (Tripitaka). They were carved in the 13^th century when Korea was faced with Mongol attacks, perhaps as a sort of spiritual defence measure against likely destruction. It is utterly astonishing that this huge old library has survived the ages intact.

To our disappointment, however, it is not possible for tourists to enter the storage rooms or even go near them – when we visited Haein-sa Temple on our Korea travels over 20 years ago, we remember, there was at least a small area open to visitors. We were so impressed back then that we have always wanted to come back. But alas, the only glimpse we can get of the woodblocks is from several meters away through an open, but latticed window.

When we pass the stone pagoda on our way back, another group of elderly women is debating the proper direction of the circumambulation – they end up walking clockwise around the pagoda. And in the museum down at the road, we can at least admire a replica of the woodblock storage shelves.

Is Haein-sa Temple worth visiting?

Yes, it is. Although you cannot see the old woodblocks close-up, it is a worthwhile daytrip out there. If you are interested in Korean Buddhism their overnight programs are in English and easy to arrange (Templestay Korea). The hilly surroundings are pleasant and the atmosphere with all the pilgrims is authentic.

How to get to the Haein-sa -Temple

Haein-sa is an easy day trip (or a longish half-day trip) from Daegu.

Daegu is a major city and transport hub in the centre of South Korea. From the Western Bus Station of Daegu (Seobu Intercity Bus Terminal, 서부 시외버스 터미널, reachable by metro) there are regular intercity buses to Haein-sa (about every 40 minutes) which take 1.5 hours. From the bus stop it's a pleasant 20 minute walk through the National Park, slightly uphill but on good broad paths. There are several cafés and small restaurants in and around the temple.

***All expenses for our trip were paid and organised by ourselves and we did not receive any funding or sponsoring.***

Eating out vegetarian at Con Tho in Berlin

On a beautiful mid-week day in May, we didn't think we would need a reservation for two people – but at 18.30 it was already difficult to get a seat on the pleasant terrace of the Vietnamese Restaurant Con Tho in Berlin, and half of the tables in the restaurant were also already occupied. The vegetarian Vietnamese restaurant seems to be quite popular, and rightly so, it turns out.

The setting is very nice, with both the terrace pleasant enough in spite of the busy road in front (but with a public park on the opposite side) and a stylish modern interior that somehow manages to be also warm and comfy.

We had a small bowl of "Rabbit's Favourite" to bridge the waiting time – two large slices of sweet potato with a garlic mayonnaise, which was amazingly good and intensified our anticipation. The main dish didn't take very long to arrive anyway.

For main dishes, we tried the "Happy Monk" vegetarian rice bowl with some seitan, marinated tofu, spinach and different vegetables on rice; and also one of their Banh Xeo (veggie rice flour pancakes). The "Afternoon Break" is a light pink pancake (the colour stems from beetroot) filled with vegetables and a lightly cooked egg. All the Banh Xeo variations are accompanied by summer rolls, or rather the ingredients for summer rolls: rice paper and lots of herbs and salad ingredients, as well as a spicy sour dip. The rice paper was already prepared and moistened and it was quite easy to stuff a roll. All the dishes we had had a distinct taste and were strong on individual herbs and spices rather than MSG.

To accompany the food, we had home-made lemonade, called "Red Lampion", which tasted intensely of cloves and mint (and perhaps of pandan, a herb that was also on the list of ingredients but that we couldn't identify). Hibiscus gave the drink a rich red colour.

We would have liked to try the desserts, but the mains were rather large servings – and also we had to vacate our table for the next guests. But we will come back for sure!

Con Tho Vegetarian Restaurant: Hasenheide 16, 10967 Berlin, Tel. 030 22456122. https://www.facebook.com/pg/ConThoBerlin

Read also the travel blog post about our visit to Chay Village, another vegan/ vegetarian Vietnamese restaurant in Berlin.

6 Highlights from 6 days in Kyoto

If you travel to Kyoto for the first time, by all means visit the must-sees! Places like Kinkakuji, Kiyomizu, Sanjusangendo or Fushimi Inari Shrine are spectacular and worth seeing even if everybody else is visiting them, too. And yes, it will be very crowded at Kyoto's top sightseeing highlights. But this post is about some off-the-beaten path highlights we discovered during 6 days we spent in Japan’s ancient capital Kyoto earlier this spring.

The Gardens at the Taizo-in Tempel

Several pleasant dry gardens with unusual round waves of gravel around stones and weeping cherry trees, yet more gardens with moss and stone lanterns, small ponds and a pagoda as backdrop – we were surprised to find such an enjoyable temple with so few visitors not far from Kyoto's main tourist attractions of Kinkaku-ji and Ryoan-ji. Taizo-in, a sub-temple of the not-so often visited Myoshin-ji in the Northwest of Kyoto, even offers dinner events with light-up in the garden during the cherry blossom season.

Matcha Parfait at Eirakuya

Between the tall modern buildings around the shopping district of Shijo-Kawaramachi, there is one old house with a sloping tiled roof. From the street it looks like many others, though; there is a shop inside selling traditional Kyoto sweets, pickles and salty miso paste. In the back, an unobtrusive sign announces a café on the second floor, and another sign mentions that the café is full – please register at the cash desk – but it is a moderate queue and it doesn't take us long to get a table. A surprise, since many of the touristy ice cream parlours around here are quite crowded, and this is a long-established cafe specialising in matcha and matcha sweets. Some of the Japanese guests have come wearing Kimonos, and not the cheap rental ones but proper high-class family heirlooms. We have a beautiful and tasty matcha latte, and the shop‘s speciality: a huge matcha parfait with lots of green tea ice-cream and green tea sauce, green tea jelly, plus shiratama (sticky rice balls), sweet bean paste, crunchy popped wheat and whipped cream.

Stone fellows at the Sekihôji Temple

When we passed the Fukakusa train station in the South of Kyoto, we remembered a temple we had visited many years ago during our first trip to Japan together (in 1991), and decided to revisit the Sekihôji Temple. It is a relatively minor Zen temple with the main hall only rebuilt in the 1980s after a fire. But it was here that the eccentric painter Ito Jakuchu lived in a simple hut in the 1790s, and he spent much of his time creating quite intriguing stone statues. The 500 Rakan, Buddhist holy men who are usually depicted highlighting their negative traits and imperfections (because nobody is perfect, but you can still try your best) are hidden in the forest behind the temple. A very atmospheric place.

A modern stone garden at Tôfukuji Tempel

Somewhat south-east of Kyoto station (and thus outside the central sightseeing areas), Tôfukuji is one of Kyoto's largest Zen temples, reasonably but not overly popular with tourists and especially famous for its autumn foliage. We are, however, particularly impressed by the spectacular gardens designed by Shigemori Mirei – the first important work by this innovative 20^th century garden artist, which made him famous. Anyone interested in Japanese gardens and/or modern Zen design should go and visit the Tôfukuji Abbot's Garden (Hôjô Teien 方丈庭園). In addition, Tôfukuji boasts some fascinating historical details, such as Japan’s oldest Zen bath house, and Japan’s oldest toilet facilities in a Zen temple.

Sake Tasting in Fushimi

Fushimi ward in the South of Kyoto is the regional centre for Sake brewing, thanks to its clear water. A number of Sake breweries in the area can be visited – we had a look at the Gekkeikan museum (Gekkeikan Ôkura Kinenkan) and sampled a craft beer at Kizakura Kinenkan (also originally a Sake brewery but now specialising more in craft beers). Finally, we went on to a Sake tasting at Fushimi Sake Village (Fushimi Sakagura Kouji). This pleasant bar in a yatai mura (a kind of traditional food court) also offers a full-scale Sake tasting with 17 small glasses of high quality Sake, each from a different regional brewery. And the food was good too.

Hidden doors at the Nijô Jinya

Nijô Jinya, hidden in a small alley not far from the much larger and touristy Nijô-jô Castle, used to be a VIP guesthouse during the Edo period (1600–1868). It can only be visited on a guided tour (in Japanese, although they do have an English leaflet for foreign travellers), but even at the start of the tourist season we could make a reservation for the next day. The house is a sprawling, rather luxurious villa, and the special features designed for yesteryear's luxury travellers don't seem so far away from today's needs: A comfortable interior with a built-in theatre stage (no cinema in those days); speedy food delivery facilities for room service; soundproof rooms for private talks; hidden chambers for the body guards; special emphasis on safety, fireproof materials, escape routes, safe storage for documents and valuables …

No pictures inside though – this is the only picture we have.

Extra: Coffee at Walden Woods

An inconspicuous white building behind Shosei-en Garden, without any sign or menu: Walden Woods is as minimalist as it gets; just a coffee counter and upstairs simple white steps to sit on. No decoration, no tables, no frills. The coffee was good, though.